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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.